Showing posts with label Lake Michigan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lake Michigan. Show all posts

Tuesday, 7 May 2024

Notes from Flight AA47 from London Heathrow to Chicago O'Hare, USA...

4 May 2024: Compared with yesterday's inclement weather, today was a breath of fresh air and most welcomed. There were clear, smokey blue skies when I woke up and the good weather continued. I awoke around 0222hrs mainly because I was fretting about the long flight ahead of me, but the good weather made me feel a little better about the trip, not that I wouldn't have rejoiced had an announcement came through about the event I was attending being cancelled. Not that I really wanted it to be; it's good meeting with the Americans once a year and this will be my 10th event, or 10 in a row, so to speak, so I'm kind of a veteran of the circuit. Who wants to be a veteran?

There are always hassles when travelling and this trip proved no exception except to say that it all turned out okay (or did it? More later on that one!).  

I started my journey in a taxi, but when the driver intimated that there might be a problem with the M25, I asked him to take me to the railway station where I jumped on the 0810 train to Victoria and then took the tube to Paddington where I picked up the Heathrow Express. I decided to purchase a single ticket as I might get the Elizabeth Line when I get back to the UK next Saturday at the early hour of 0740hrs. I'll be flying back from New York, having already flown from Columbus to New York that same day.

En route to Chicago and enjoying every minute!

The check-in at Heathrow (Terminal 3) was relatively easy, although I had tried checking in on my iphone whilst on the Heathrow Express, but no joy. It didn't matter, it was all fairly smooth and soon I met up with my colleague for breakfast. While I'm not keen on Wagamama, the fact that breakfast was an option changed things slightly. I ordered a Japanese omelette and a bright green 'power' drink for added positivity. Unknowingly, I'd need that positivity later in the day although in all honesty I think it deserted me.

Soon it was time to head for Gate 31. In fact, we almost missed the flight as the gate was announced as 'closing' so we hoofed it, but when we reached it there was a full complement of passengers still sitting around waiting to board. A false alarm if ever there was one.

I had a great seat, 12A, and I soon discovered that 12B and 12C would remain vacant and that I would have the whole row to play with, not that I played with anything other than my notepad and pen [writing this very post]. Either way it was a result, the whole row to myself and loads of extra leg room. While I started to settle, I couldn't drum up any enthusiasm for the journey. However, put it this way: having seat 12a and an empty row makes things a lot better than they might otherwise have been. I've booked a similar seat for my return journey from New York, so let's hope there's nobody else in the row. Right now, however, I just wish I could be in Chicago or, better still, my ultimate destination: Columbus, Ohio.

Monty's Bakehouse pastry – the best!
The food on the plane was fine. Nothing to write home about admittedly, but acceptable. The choice, as always, was pasta or chicken and, as always, I chose the latter. It was served with rice and spinach and while there was other stuff – like a rock hard bread roll, cheese and a chocolate cake dessert – I refused everything else bar two crackers and a small bag of pretzels that had arrived ahead of the aforementioned meal.

The plane (with me in it!) has departed from Heathrow, gone over South Wales and gently passed over the southern tip of Ireland and is now mid-Atlantic running a true air speed of 553 mph as it approaches something called the Charlie-Gibbs Fracture Zone, whatever that might be; we're flying at 37,000 feet and there are all these odd places, like Gloria Ridge, Eirik Ridge and others that I'm guessing are markers of some sort, but I neither know nor care.

I don't like flying at the best of times. Or rather I don't mind it, but if I could take the train I would. Whenever I go to Europe I try to let the train take the strain, but you can't train it across the Atlantic... not yet at any rate! Imagine a bridge!

One thing I do like to have is a choice and when such a thing eludes me, I get a little irritated. So, I'm sitting here, the lunch service finishes and they decide to dim everyone's windows and giving everything a dark blue tint. Personally I prefer the plastic shutters or blinds or whatever they're called because they give the passenger the choice of whether to look out of the window or not. I called a member of the cabin crew and she fixed it for me.

So now I sit here with five hours and 37 minutes to go and I'm already bored shitless. I will probably read some of James O'Brien's How they Broke Britain, but not yet as I feel very restless and anxious. There's five hours and 23 minutes to go.

I'm trying my best not to eat badly. It helps that during the week I've been visiting a place called Busy Beans (in Redhill) and having light salads for lunch and trying also not to eat more than a couple of slices of bread each day.

There's four hours and 50 minutes until we reach Chicago O'Hare and I'm the only one with my window "open", so to speak. Everybody else has that aforementioned deep blue tint which has plunged the cabin into darkness, it's as if it's the middle of the night and people are sleeping and doing stuff in the dark making my little corner the only ray of light. I certainly don't want to pretend it's night time when it isn't, but I feel under pressure as if they're all whispering under their breath, asking me, pressuring me to 'turn that light out' but I'm not going to; I don't want to watch their crappy movies or listen to the airline's awful choice of music. I was hoping I'd at least be able to listen to that great guitar riff from Dire Straits' Money for Nothing, but there's nothing but crap stuff and likewise the movies.

I mean, who the fuck is Robert Finley? Who is Tony Joe White when he's at home? Who is Pony Bradshaw? Andrea Von Kampen? Anybody? Natalie Hemby? Matt Berninger? You get my drift, I'm sure you do. There was hardly anything worthy under 'Classic Hits', nothing I knew at any rate. Celebrate Women's Voices? No! Who the hell is Camille Yarbrough? Only Isaac Hayes stood out, but there was no sign of his Theme from Shaft. And let's not make out it was easy to hear any of this stuff: the sound of the plane's engines put paid to that and I didn't particularly want to mess around poking earphones in my ears.

I am considering watching an animated movie without sound. But which one? There's a lot of dross. In fact, what a piss poor collection of 'entertainment'.

Outside the cloud has gone away and I can see the Atlantic Ocean below me and it looks flat calm from up here at 38,000 feet. The plane is heading for St. Johns, Newfoundland, at 555 mph and we've left behind the Charlie-Gibbs Fracture Zone with just over four hours flying left to do.

Watching an animated movie with the sound down is fantastic and reminds me of 'old times'. I can just glance up at it now and then while I'm writing and occasionally staring out of the window. It's great.

But then I was caught unawares by one of the cabin crew. "Vanilla ice cream, sir?" At least with American Airlines you get called 'sir'. With British Airways you're only called sir if you're in business class, revealing, of course, the British obsession with class and privilege. The female cabin crew member held out a small and inviting tub of the stuff and I foolishly weakened. It was rock hard so I'm leaving it alone for a while. Actually, it wasn't very nice, there was no taste at all, but then perhaps that's vanilla ice cream for you.

The animated movie I was watching, incidentally, is called The Inventor and its good just to glance at it occasionally without really knowing what's going on.

As if by magic, the cloud is back, it's like a huge sheet of ice stretching into the distance and there's no let-up. We could be in the Arctic, but I know I'm not, we're almost over Newfoundland and the city of St. Johns.

"And they wandered in to the city of St. Johns without a dime."

What a great song! Steely Dan, the Royal Scam, a great song and an amazing album, but not on the sound system of the flight.

There's three hours and 53 minutes to go and the rest of the aircraft is still in darkness. I have the only source of light and I love it, just me.

I've been clock-watching for a fair bit now and I'm thinking that when the big hand of my watch completes another circuit there will be just under three hours to go. We're still flying at 38,000 feet, the cloud outside still looks like a sheet of solid ice and there's a man behind me who keeps coughing. Just my luck if he has Covid, but let's hope not. Sniffing, coughing, clearing his throat, he's a big, fat fucker and I hate having him sitting behind me spreading his awful germs everywhere.

The Inventor is a strange movie (or it is if you watch it with the sound down). When I get home I'll see if it's on Netflix or Prime and watch it with sound on. What I can say is this: it's well done, nicely put together. I just can't get over the cloud below me and I can't imagine the plane cutting through it. There's three hours and 42 minutes to go and that equates to 1,905 miles more to travel.

I'm hoping that the back of my chair will act as a shield and keep the bloke behind me's germs in his court and not mine, hitting the back of my seat and then hitting him in the face, a continuous loop.

The cloud has dispersed again and in places I can see the Atlantic Ocean. I hate clock-watching but that's what I'm doing. There's three hours and 30 minutes left to go.

And now there's two hours and 12 minutes until we reach O'Hare and it's possible, here and there, to see land below, the odd lake, even roads are visible. The Inventor ended and now I'm watching Deadland, but this time with sound. It looks good and I'll definitely be looking out for it when I get home, but it isn't that good, nothing ever is.

I'm wondering if there will be any more food, perhaps not. Outside the clouds still look solid and snow-like again and we've just passed over Portland, Maine – according to the flight map. It's lunch time in Chicago, which is kind of weird as it was sort of lunch time when I left London.

I could do without a connecting flight to Columbus, but that's the journey. Fortunately, it's a short flight, under an hour I would imagine once we're in the air. 

One hour and 46 minutes to go on this flight. I'd like to think some more food is on the way, just to break up the monotony, a cup of tea, a biscuit, anything, but it's gone all quiet on the Western Front, so to speak.

With just under an hour to go, Lake Michigan hoves into view on the left hand side of the aircraft. Is that port or starboard, I can't remember. I think it's the port side. If my memory serves me correctly, we head south (or turn left) at some point and then begin our descent into Chicago O'Hare over the lake. We have yet to lose altitude with 59 minutes to go and the cloud a little more dispersed than it has been.

It's been a quiet flight. I haven't heard any kids screaming or babies crying. In fact, come to think of it, I haven't seen any families, unless they're all at the rear of the plane, but I don't think so.

The lights are coming on and the people seem to be reviving themselves, their movies finished, their books read and I swear I can smell coffee, not that I'll be having any, perhaps another tea instead. Lake Michigan is visible again from my window and I'm pretty sure we'll be banking left at any minute. The coughing and spluttering man has returned to his seat – where the hell did he go? – and the cabin crew have just whizzed by with a trolley, meaning they are planning to serve something, probably a hot drink. The sun is shining and it's just dawned on me that, give or take, I've been writing for around seven hours.

Perhaps that wasn't Lake Michigan as we haven't veered left yet so perhaps we might not veer left after all. I can't remember.

Wow! Monty's Bakehouse red pepper, tomato and paprika pastry – or calzone as the cabin crew called it. Amazing! And I could certainly eat another one, that's for sure. There's 48 minutes to go and we're still at 38,000 feet so perhaps I was wrong about Lake Michigan. In fact, I WAS wrong, it was Lake Erie.

The plane is making its descent into O'Hare as I write this. We are between Flint and Grand Rapids, both places you see mentioned on destination boards if you walk past the gates in an American air terminal. We're flying at 32,000 feet and counting. Those white clouds – or rather that blanket of white cloud – that looks a little more like clouds now, but it's possible (just) to see land below it.

I'm always amazed at how the cabin crew just get on with it, while I get more and more anxious about the whole thing. I can see a patchwork quilt of fields below me and soon they'll be asking me to stow away my table top or whatever it's called.

It's time to swallow as the pressure starts to affect my ears, we're now at 30,000 feet.

I forgot all about the security, ie immigration and customs. A video explaining the whole process is now being screened – and now I can see Lake Michigan, it's huge, it has beaches!

I never listen to the information videos on a plane, I simply follow the signs when I get there. It's funny how, now we are over the lake, we've left the clouds behind. They look like a huge white hedge which, come to think of it, will be waiting for us on the other side – we're surrounded – although I reckon we'll slip underneath them by the time we get there. There's around 20 minutes until we land.

"Flight attendants, please prepare for landing."

I'm now balancing my notebook on my lap and waiting for when we land. We're at 8,999 feet now and counting. I'm guessing the plane is lining itself up with the runway. In the distance I can see a bank of clouds waiting for us, but perhaps we'll be low enough to miss them. 7,002 feet and 324 mph. We bank right and then straighten up. Now we're banking right again. It's very hazy out there. I can see a boat of some kind, cargo barge, and we're still banking right, but have now straightened up again. I can see the city, skyscrapers clustered together close to the lake, the sun shining as we approach dry land. The lake sparkles in the sunshine, there's a marina, houses, car parks, a motorway, cars travelling hither and thither, the plane shaking a little as a suburban church pops up. More baseball pitches, more houses, more wooded areas and soon I'd imagine, there will be airport buildings. We fly over a runway and we land, the engines go into reverse thrust mode and we are down at 2.45pm local time (0845pm in the UK). Time to head for immigration and baggage reclaim.


Thursday, 15 October 2015

Boats, baguettes, biscuits, bands

Somebody had spoken about an architectural boat trip along the Chicago River and being as I haven't enjoyed a boat trip for many a year, the thought of buying a ticket lodged in my brain, although that was just it, a thought. I knew that I'd probably never get around to it.

Skyscrapers and lots of them in Chicago
So I'm walking along North Michigan Avenue wondering exactly what to do - I had some free time having been working most of the morning - and my initial plan was nothing more than a stroll around the city and then, perhaps, a bite to eat somewhere. Until, that is, I spied a small kiosk and a man offering the aforementioned architectural cruise. At just $32 it seemed too good to miss so I booked myself on the next boat and off I went.

The boat chugged merrily along the Chicago River and a guide pointed out various buildings, or should I say skyscrapers of architectural significance, that might be of interest to us humble tourists. He was good. He certainly knew his stuff, but he spoke at such a speed I doubt if anybody's brain could take in the information fast enough. Mine certainly couldn't.

I made a note of all the bridges we cruised under: the Du Sable Bridge, a bridge under Dearborn Street, Clark Street, La Salle, Wells St, Franklin St, Grand Avenue, after which we entered the north section of the river, then Ohio St where the boat turned around and headed for the south section of the river. Kinzie St, Lake St, Randolph St, Washington Boulevard, Madison, Monroe, Adams, Jackson Boulevard, Van Buren, Congress, Harrison.

Our guide mentioned the Sears Tower, which used to be Chicago's tallest building, but not any more and while he did mention the name of the tallest building today, it was all so fast I've forgotten it. We passed the Civic Opera building where once, apparently, they planned to screen movies on the building's blank, river-facing wall, but it never happened as some local dignatory probably disapproved. We heard about how lots of companies were moving to Chicago and some were moving back to the city from the outer suburbs. As a result there was plenty of construction work going on.

To be honest, I wasn't that interested. I've never been the sort of person who listens too carefully to what guides have to say. I don't enjoy museums either, come to think of it. I'm not sure why that is, I just don't have the patience and I'd rather learn from a book. For me the thrill of the trip was simply being in a boat on the Chicago River, enjoying the sunshine, although there was a cool breeze.

The Chicago skyline taken from the boat
What did interest me was Lake Michigan. It's huge. I mean, it has horizons, like an open sea. But what I found amazing was that in parts it is over 900 feet deep. Now that's pretty amazing for a lake, I'm sure you'll agree.

Once back on dry land it was time to seek out somewhere for lunch and Toni Café and Patisserie fitted the bill nicely and it was inexpensive. There was something quaint and French about the place; it had marble-topped tables and a long glass counter displaying cakes and pastries. On blackboards high on the back wall behind the servery there were details of the food offering: sandwiches, baguettes and salads along with a range of hot beverages. This was the sort of place I'd been searching for; it was absolutely perfect. And while it was effectively a 'caff' it was licensed and sold some interesting wines.

I ordered a Pinot Noir (which came in glass mug, not a wine glass) but I like that sort of quirkiness, followed by cream of mushroom soup, a ham baguette, a cup of tea and a chocolate and walnut cookie. The tea and cookie was an afterthought, but because I loved this place so much I decided, having already paid my bill ($26) to stay for tea... and a decent cup of tea too.
Toni's Patisserie and Café. This place was the best ever...

Feeling suitably relaxed I wandered the city for a while. I travelled further down North Michigan Avenue, which became South Michigan Avenue and checked out a couple of bookshops  en route. In fact I wore myself out walking and by the time I returned to my hotel I was so tired I simply switched on the television, turned to channel 56 (BBC Americas) and watched Bear Grylls tackling the swamps of Sumatra and the wilds of Alaska.

I needed to be in the hotel at around 2030hrs so I could check in for my flight back to London using the hotel's business centre. The plan was to get a decent seat. But before that I figured dinner would be a good idea. I set my sights on a place called Spiagga - I think that's the right spelling. It took a while to find it. I knew it was out of my hotel, turn right and walk along North Michigan Avenue, but I couldn't find it at first. I'd almost resolved to find somewhere else to eat, but then I saw it. Or rather I saw the restaurant's name. It wasn't accessible at street level. I had to enter some kind of apartment building and take an escalator one flight before being guided into the restaurant, which seemed a bit poncy. Lots of waiting staff fussing around and being ultra polite. And then I realized why. This place was going to sting me for about $200! It got worse. The menus were 'tasting' menus and being as I know a bit about all this (having edited a fine dining magazine in the UK for four straight years and interviewed many a top chef) I can tell you now that 'tasting menus' are a big rip-off. Basically, a lot of little dishes in succession for an extortionate amount of money.

Foolishly I ordered a glass of wine ($16). Not too bad in the scheme of things, but did I really want to pay $195 for a tasting menu and be fussed around by a gaggle of poncy waiters all night? No I didn't! And I didn't want to part with my money either. To be honest, all I wanted was a main course dish, some bread and a glass of wine, maybe two glasses. I decided to make my excuses and leave. The original plan was to head back to Rosebud.

Downtown Chicago
Fortunately, Spiagga has a more conventional Italian restaurant across the hall and I decided to check it out. Certainly less expensive than the other place and not a tasting menu in sight. But while not as pricey, it was still annoying. The menu offered meals that were suitable for two people, meaning that whatever I ordered I was going to get enough for two. Why? Why can't I just eat a normal meal for one? But no, they were not that flexible. I ordered the charcuterie to start and a huge consignment of salami arrived. I was expected to eat it all. To be fair, I did, but then came the pork shoulder. It was reminiscent of the opening credits to the Hanna Barbera Flintstones cartoon when they go to a diner and a huge chunk of ribs lands on their car, toppling it over. I ate about half of it, had a couple glasses of Zinfandel and then paid up and left.

The food was alright, but it was still a bit pricey, and the only good thing was the waiting staff who had things covered. But in all honesty, I wish I'd gone back to Rosebud for a chicken Milanese. There's nothing worse than being confused by a restaurant - tasting menus, dishes that serve only two people and not one, it's all too much when all I wanted to do was eat and get back to my hotel. So I'm going to score Spiagga low, I'm afraid, and they can expect a similarly low score when I eventually get round to Trip Advisor.

Right now it's Thursday and I'm due to fly back this evening. I've checked in online, I've packed my suitcase and all I have to do now is check out of the hotel and leave my bags with the concierge until later. Then it's time to hit the streets of Chicago for one last time. I've really enjoyed it and I'll definitely return, hopefully in the not-too-distant future.

Postscript: I really enjoyed my visit to Toni's Patisserie & Café yesterday. So much so that I returned today (Thursday) for roughly the same lunch as before, except that I had a second 'glass' of Pinot Noir and instead of a cookie I had a pastry. While I was there somebody walked in and stole somebody's wallet. It was all so quick and he was gone. The police were there in minutes, but whoever did it got away.

Then, out in the streets, as I walked along East Washington, I heard some tremendous music. Jazz Funk stuff. The band was fantastic. So fantastic it brought a much-needed smile to my face. I had to go and listen to the music and was transfixed when I found the band further down the street. The bassist was tremendous and the brass players were on top of their game, so was the drummer who only had a snare drum resting on a milk crate and and upturned plastic bucket. They drew quite a crowd and I have to say that I didn't particularly want to stop listening; I could have stood there all afternoon. This was much more than busking, these guys could really play, so I left some money in the bucket and took a card.

If you live in Chicago, check out David C Walker Jnr on dav3130@gmailcom or call him on 001 773 809 0769. He's also on Facebook: Dwalker3130@facebook.com