Tuesday 2 April 2019

Psychogeography - walking through Amsterdam...

I resolved to get up early, have breakfast - fresh fruit, yoghurt, Coco Pops, green tea with lemon and and a small croissant - and then attempt to walk to the conference hotel without the aid of a map. The event registration was at 1330hrs so I had the time to get some exercise. I walked through the Rembrandt park until I emerged on the streets and then followed a canal, which in turn seemed to follow the flight path of aircraft into Schipol Airport. Every minute or so a plane would fly over, undercarriage down, approaching the runway.
The walk started at Rembrandt Park

I passed a number of nice looking houseboats and began to wish that I was living in one, enjoying a much more chilled out existence than I'm living in the UK at the moment where there's a knife crime epidemic, rising homelessness and inequality and, of course, Brexit. Good old Tories.

The houseboats gave way to modern, often ugly, office buildings, which continued all the way to the Novotel where I will be spending all day Wednesday and Thursday before flying back to the UK.

Having reached the Novotel and checked things out for the conference, I decided to head towards the 'centrum'. It would add another hour or so of walking to what had already been a punishing walk. Not that I was feeling it. When I reached the American Hotel - somebody once told me it was Gestapo headquarters during the Second World War, but I don't know for sure - I went straight to the restaurant, ordered a Heineken 00 and a club sandwich and relaxed. The food was of a reasonable standard, although somehow I was expecting it to be slightly better than it was. I don't know about you, but I can't stand it when I order sandwiches and they arrive with a pile of crisps (or potato chips as they call them in the USA). Not that my disgust for crisps stopped me eating every single one of them. I polished them off with aplomb and even considered dessert, but eventually decided to head back to my hotel, this time in a train. I walked all the way - or almost all the way - to Amsterdam's Centraal Station where I intended to pick up a train to Postjesweg.

Cycle lane early on the walk...
I followed signs to the station, but found a metro stop and bought myself a two-day ticket. The nearest station to the Novotel is the Rai stop. There's a big exhibition centre in Amsterdam called the Rai Centre. It's been there for years and I've never, ever, been inside it. I hope I never have to. Prior to reaching the Metro station I found an American bookshop and spent an inordinate amount of time picking up books by Chomsky, Joyce, Mailer, you name it, but didn't buy anything. Ideally, I wanted something on 'psycho geography', but there was nothing. The first train took me as far as Zuid where I changed to the M50, or M51, it didn't matter, to Postjesweg. There was a short wait. The train was packed, but I managed to get a seat and spent the time looking out of the window to see if I could spot some of the landmarks of my outward trip. It was a bit like fast rewind on a tape recorder.

When I got off the train I needed to ask directions for the hotel. I don't like asking for directions, who does? But I eventually did ask and soon I found myself back in Rembrandt Park as daylight faded, for what amounted to a short walk. I was tired, but I had work to do before moseying on up to the 17th floor for dinner. There were no tables, but only space around the bar, which I accepted and struck up a conversation with a retired Finnish gentleman who used to be a civil engineer. He was on holiday with his wife who must have gone to bed. Him and I talked about many things, including Brexit. I ordered a bell pepper soup followed by a mushroom risotto and a couple more of those Heineken 00 beers. I passed on dessert, said goodbye to my new Finnish friend and now I'm back in the room looking out at the darkness and longing to hit the sack.

Crossing a canal...
Walking is good and in total yesterday I walked 18 kilometres. It's liberating to view the city from a different perspective and not just from a taxi rear window. I expanded my knowledge of Amsterdam's geography and didn't feel dictated to by 'the man'. Walking is little subversive too as I found I wasn't subjected to advertising billboards as I might have been on the train or bus. The establishment wants us 'in our place', it wants us to consume the goods of the capitalist system and spend our money on proscribed routes from A to B. They certainly don't want us to be using our own initiative, finding short cuts (or long cuts) where 'they' might not be in control. I was intrigued to discover, whilst watching a lecture on YouTube given by Will Self to Google employees back in 2007, that the wide boulevards of Paris were so designed not only to aid troop movements, but to oppress the masses should the need arise, so it's good to know the back alleys, the short cuts, the different routes in and out of the metropolis. Not that I have any intention of rising up and bringing down the Government, I'll leave that to Brexit. I voted remain, by the way, just in case I haven't said so before on this blog.

Houseboats - a pleasant place to live, I thought...

Signs proved useful occasionally...

There were bikes everywhere...

A well-earned beer at the American Hotel



At Heathrow Airport...and then Amsterdam

I'm flying British Airways to Amsterdam and it's only a short flight, something like 40 minutes, but the flight is full and I had to go to the desk close to Gate A10 to secure a seat. I asked for a window, but I've been given seat 8D, which is an aisle seat, and I'm happy with that because it's not a long flight so it doesn't really matter. Had it been a little longer, I would have been happy with an aisle seat, so all is well.

There's not enough time to chill out with a cup of tea and a Millionaire's Shortbread - or something of that ilk - so I thought I'd start blogging early. Normally I can't do this because my old Macbook was, well, old, and it wouldn't have the battery power, but my new Chromebook is a different kettle of fish. The battery's been going since yesterday morning and there's still loads of power left, so I can sit here, at the gate, blogging until the flight is called. I'm now at Gate A2 and the crowds are gathering, not to watch me blogging, I hasten to add, but to get on the plane.

It's currently 1532hrs and outside it's bright and clear skies, a complete contrast to yesterday's drizzly, cold day. And now that I'm sitting here writing, I realise the reason (apart from the poor battery on my Mac) why I don't normally blog prior to arriving at my destination: there's not much to say. The journey here was pretty uneventful and, look, I'd better go as they're boarding the flight, we can continue this conversation later.

Later...
The flight was packed. So packed that there was no room for my suitcase. I stood in the aisle next to seat 8D as I knew there were people destined to sit in seats 8E and 8F. They eventually arrived, but I remained standing, my suitcase on my seat. When the steady stream of passengers filing in to the plane slowed to a trickle, I went in search of a member of the cabin crew to tell him or her there was no room for my suitcase. A male steward moved a few bags around, placing them in other overhead lockers and then invited me to place my case in the vacated space. At last I could take my seat.

The plane trundled out of the gate and made its way to the runway. The pilot said it was excellent flying weather and he was right. I ordered a peppermint tea and a KitKat and shortly after I finished my tea and had read John Simpson's column in High Life (the only piece of writing in the entire magazine worth reading in my opinion) the pilot announced there was 10 minutes until landing. We hit the tarmac with a thud and made our way to the terminal building and then I went in search of the hotel shuttle buses.

Having listened (watched) Will Self giving a lecture at Google HQ on the subject of 'psychogeography' I looked at the taxi rank with suspicion. Taxi drivers, says Will Self, are the arch enemies of the psycho-geographer and I knew what he meant. I was reminded of a quote that appears in Fahrenheit 451, something like "if they give you lined paper, write the other way'. So I waited for the hotel shuttle bus, which rolled up after about 15 minutes of hanging around. I was the only passenger. It didn't take long to reach the hotel, but I was a little concerned that it was closer to the airport than Amsterdam's downtown, where I'm guessing my conference hotel is located.

It's a good hotel - so far. The check-in was quick and friendly, the room is very good: twin bed, flatscreen television on the wall opposite the bed, a desk looking out on the city (I'm on the fifth floor of 18) and there's even a sofa, a safe, a telephone, tea and coffee making facilities and a few magazines, everything you might expect, including a bottle of mineral water. But no minibar. Not that I want one. And no wardrobe either!

Time was moving on and I needed some dinner. The restaurant is on the 17th floor and it offers panoramic views of Amsterdam and an interesting menu. I opted for brocolli soup, an FL17 burger (basically a beefburger with bacon, lettuce, cheese) and an apple pie with ice cream - or rather a kind of 'tart', certainly not a pie. I ordered a bottle of mineral water (sparkling) and a Solero 'mocktail', which was more ice cubes than cocktail. I had a side order of chips and a mayo dip and just sat there, alone, people watching and listening to the loud music that played throughout my time there. Not my kind of music if I'm honest.

I headed back to the room to get my credit card (I wasn't allowed to put the meal 'on the room') and then returned to the 17th floor to pay the bill. Now I'm back in my room, the Brexit documentary is on the television (I can get BBC1 and BBC2 here) and I'm feeling tired. And there's nothing worse than feeling tired and not being able to switch off the television. Yes, there's a big red button and I know it's the power-off button, but it doesn't work so I spent an inordinate amount of time faffing about pressing different buttons and getting nowhere. Eventually I resorted to calling reception. "Press the big red button at the top of the remote," said the guy on the other end of the phone. "Thanks," I said, and hung up. I then spent a good 15 seconds, maybe longer, possibly 20 or even 25 seconds with my finger pressing down the red button before, suddenly, the screen went blank. Now, I can get some sleep. And yes, you're right, I re-logged in just to write five sentences.